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ROUTE 8

Cwm Bochlwyd Horseshoe 1

A classic horseshoe ridge traverse incorporating some of the greatest scrambling in the Glyders.

Location Glyders, Ogwen
Grade 1***
Circuit time 5hr
Route length 9km
Conditions Extremely popular during fine summer weekends. The highly polished rock – unpleasant but not especially difficult to climb when wet – soon dries after rain during warm or breezy weather. Bristly Ridge is exposed to strong crosswinds.
Topo Also see Routes 19, 29, 38 and 39

This exhilarating ridge traverse is similar in quality and difficulty to the Snowdon Horseshoe. In circling Cwm Bochlwyd it visits the summits of Tryfan and Glyder Fach; ascends two classic ridges – the North Ridge of Tryfan and Bristly Ridge on Glyder Fach; and descends two lesser ones – the South Ridge of Tryfan and the Gribin Ridge. All these components of the traverse are described separately later, but for convenience links are described here.


Approach

From Capel Curig or Bethesda along the A5. Park in the lay-by (SH 663 603) below the Milestone Buttress, a prominent feature on the lower west side of the North Ridge of Tryfan.

Ascent/Descent

Ascent of Tryfan via the North Ridge: See Route 19.


Scramblers finding a route up Tryfan’s North Ridge on the Cwm Bochlwyd Horseshoe

Descent from Tryfan via the South Ridge (Route 29): Traverse to the South Summit then descend the South Ridge, generally by its gentler west side, to the broad col between South and Far South summits. Again avoid difficulties by flanking the Far South Summit on the west side (although the adventurous may prefer to stay roughly with the crest for additional challenge) and then descend to Bwlch Tryfan (SH 662 588).

Ascent of Glyder Fach via Bristly Ridge: See Route 30.

Descent from Glyder Fach via the Gribin Ridge (Route 38): From the summit, continue south west for 300m to the fairytale Castell y Gwynt (Castle of the Wind). For added interest this can be scrambled over directly or, much faster, is passed on the left by a path to Bwlch y Ddwy Glyder (SH 652 582). Ignore the continuation of the path to Glyder Fawr and instead circle the rim of Cwm Bochlwyd for a further 200m onto the promontory above the Gribin Ridge. Descend the ridge by scrambling on the well-travelled crest to a broad level grassy section (alternatively the scrappier scree and scramble path to the left can be used). Continue along the east side of the ridge until a grassy path curves right and descends to the Llyn Bochlwyd outflow. Descend the path on the west bank of the stream then, after the angle eases, cross the stream and pick a rightward diagonal descent over boggy ground with occasional paths to gain the A5 at a large car park (SH 659 601) less than 500m from the start.

Scrambles in Snowdonia

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