Читать книгу Ellsworth on Woodturning - David Ellsworth - Страница 42

To get an oval-shaped handle on my hollowing tools, I first turn the handle round, then offset the back of the handle in the tailstock ¼" and use a gouge to shave off some of the extra meat at the back of the handle. This produces an oval shape in the area where I have to grip the tool with the greatest strength. You can trim the area to fit your hand. If you overcut, you’ll end up with a round shape, offset from the rest of the handle by ¼".

I run the oval around 6" up from the back of the handle, but people with shorter arms might want to go 12" just to give them more of this area to grip when they’re cutting at shorter distances in a hollow form.

I also leave a rough surface on my tool handles to give my hands some traction. I’ve seen a lot of pretty handles in people’s shops over the years, with fancy woods and slick surfaces. They’re a nice tribute to a good tool, and a lot of fun to make, but I wonder how efficient they are in terms of hand slippage—you might have to grip them tighter to make them work. It comes down to personal choice. My handles are intentionally crude.

Finally, I cut a ⅛"-deep recess 1½" long on the business end of the tool handle to receive a wrapped ferrule after the shaft is glued in. I also roll over the end so it fits comfortably in my hand.