Читать книгу Ellsworth on Woodturning - David Ellsworth - Страница 43

To drill the hole, I mount a Jacobs chuck in the headstock and the back end of the handle in the tailstock. I use either a multispur drill bit or a flat spade bit the same diameter as the shaft, because regular drill bits will wander as they go deeper into the end grain of the handle. I mark the bit with tape at the depth to which I want to drill and grab the handle with one hand, turn on the lathe, and wind the tailstock handle forward. When I’m at the desired depth, I let go of the handle, reach down, and turn off the lathe. This way, I’m in no danger if anything goes wrong while drilling.

Turning a tool handle

One overlooked value to making your own turning tools is you get to make your own handles. You can turn the handles from branches or dimensional hardwood. The handle’s diameter should be whatever is comfortable to your hands, and the length depends on how you’re using the tool. For hollowing tools, I like to use a 15"-long handle for a 6"-long shaft, and a 28"-long handle for a 12"-long shaft. Try creating handles from 8/4 dry square stock or a small tree limb.

Place the gouge in the slicing position in preparation for roughing the handle. Shape and smooth the handle.

Turn a recess ⅛" deep to receive the ferrule. Roll the left edge of the handle.

Move the back end of the handle about ¼" on the tailstock—it doesn’t matter which way, as long as it is off-center.

Shave off some of the back end of the handle to create an oval shape. Make sure the oval shape runs at least 6" up the handle, though you may want to go to 12" if you have shorter arms. Grab the handle and see if it feels right in your hand.

Roll over the end so it will fit more comfortably in your hand while you’re turning.

Attach a Jacobs chuck in the headstock and hold the butt of the handle against the tailstock. Mark the depth of the cut to 2¼" on the drill bit with duct tape

Turn on the lathe and wind the tailstock forward. Hold the handle stationary while drilling. When you have drilled to the desired depth, let go of the handle and turn off the lathe. Check to be sure the hole is centered.

Attaching the shaft to the handle and tie a ferrule

These steps show how I attach the shaft to the handle and create a ferrule.

If you choose to use epoxy rather than superglue to secure the shaft, try drilling a ¹/₁₆"-diameter exit hole into the side of the handle, just above the base of the large hole, to allow excess epoxy to escape and give the shaft a proper seat at the bottom of the hole.

I like to tie the ferrule either while the handle is mounted on the lathe or holding the handle in my lap. Try both and see what works best for you.

Mount the shaft in the vise so the tip is in a horizontal cutting position. Apply superglue into the hole in the wooden handle. Spray the end of the shaft with accelerator.

Push the handle onto the shaft with both hands. Make sure your right hand is on the back of the handle where it would be while you were turning to ensure the tool is put together as you will want it while turning.

Make a loop with nylon cord and place it on the recessed area. The end of the cord should extend a few inches past the handle. Make sure the loop end extends past the recessed area.

Begin wrapping the cord around the end of the handle, making sure you keep the wraps tight.

When you finish wrapping the cord the whole way along the recess, cut the cord, leaving a few inches. Thread this end through the loop.

Pull the end of the cord on the shaft end. This will pull the loose end under the wraps.

Cut off the ends.