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Basic pyrography wire can be purchased in coiled lengths and cut into small sections for use as nibs. You generally need only 1 ⅛ to 2″ (30 to 50mm) of wire for a general purpose looped nib or point, but it is dependent on the shape you wish to create. Pyrography wire is made of Nichrome (a nickel and chromium alloy) and is available in a range of thicknesses: the thinner the wire, the more detailed or defined the mark on the wood will be. Thicker wire sections are ideal for making nibs for broader areas of shading or tone. The other point to consider is broader wire will not heat up as fast as wire with a thinner section, so using broader wire can be a good technique for ensuring you do not burn the wood too heavily (something you may find happens on your first attempts!). I would definitely recommend buying a pen to hold homemade nibs for your particular pyrography machine if one is available, as it offers a lot of flexibility for the creative crafter.

Pyrography wire can be purchased in coils, straight sections, or pre-cut lengths ready to be shaped.

It is possible to create a massive range of marks and effects using a single basic nib such as the one created in the sidebar here. Because this nib has a slightly rounded end (making it easy to change direction) and a small surface area in contact with the wood, it is very versatile for writing, drawing, and shading. You can make slight alterations to the nib with ease by adjusting, bending, or shaping it. Each change will affect the amount of nib in contact with the burn surface.

• Bending the end of the nib to bring a larger section in contact with the surface you are working on will enable you to make broader marks, ideal for covering a larger area of shading.

• Filing the end of a nib to make it narrower and more pointed reduces the amount of hot metal in direct contact with the wood, which enables you to create finer lines or marks required for detailed work.

• You can also make nibs with a section of wire in contact with the wood, rather than a single point: this makes them perfect for shading larger areas or for lettering such as calligraphy.

• You may also want to bend the nib nearer to the shaft of the pen in order to increase or decrease the distance between the nib and surface of the wood: this can make the pen feel more comfortable to work with and can make the nib a little more stable in your hand.

• If you want to make a curve, fold the wire around a pen or pencil.

• The longer the length of wire, the less effectively it will heat up, and the more flimsy it will be to use.

• If the wire that you are using is slightly wavy or kinked, the contact with the wooden surface will not be even, so the patterned mark will be irregular. This may create a dotted or faded effect you can use. If you want to straighten the wire, gently squeeze it with a pair of flat-nosed pliers several times. If you change the angle you squeeze from each time, gradually working your way around the wire, you should eventually straighten it sufficiently to ensure good contact with the wood. If you have access to a small anvil or metal surface, you can always gently flatten the wire nib with a small hammer, tapping it lightly to smooth out any kinks.

You can also shape and customize any nibs that you have with needle files to make a more detailed point or defined shape. Just remember to not shape them too much, as the metal wire is fairly thin. Too much alteration may result in the wire becoming weak with heat and snapping after a relatively short period of time. This can be immensely frustrating if you then have to spend time creating a second identical nib in order to complete a project you were only halfway through!

A pyrography pen designed to hold nibs made from pyrography wire is a very versatile addition to your equipment. The nibs are held into the holding posts by small screws or bolts, and replacing them takes only a few seconds with the use of a flat-headed screwdriver.