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4.4.2 Polysaccharides and Oligosaccharides 4.4.2.1 Hyaluronic Acid
ОглавлениеHyaluronic acid (HA) is a high‐molecular‐weight glycosaminoglycan heteropolysaccharide made of repeated disaccharide units of N‐acetyl‐D‐glucosamine (GlcNAc) and D‐glucuronic acid (GlcA) linked by B‐(1→3) and B‐(1→4) glycosidic bonds. Many reports have shown numerous commercial applications of HA and its salts in cosmetic products like makeup kits, moisturizers, lotions, sprays, lipsticks, etc. [48]. HA can be derived from several natural sources, yet HA derived from bacterial fermentation and rooster combs are only used in cosmetics. Its major role in cosmetic formulations is for skin‐conditioning agents and viscosity‐enhancing agents. This is due to its ability to its large water retention capacity that provides hydration to the skin. Antiaging creams are another product using a large amount of HA [49]. The anti‐wrinkle effect of HA has also been reported, which was due to effective moisturization and improved skin elasticity [50]. The emergence of HA as a dermal filler in recent years has swiftly replaced collagen in nonsurgical cosmetic procedures [49].
HA is a major component of the dermal skin matrix present in every tissue and body fluid. As an effect of the aging process, there is a gradual decrease in the glycosaminoglycan HA content in the dermal layer resulting in skin dryness glycosaminoglycan (GAG) hyaluronic acid. Protection from ultraviolet radiation, tissue regeneration, and water retention properties of HA has been reported [51, 52].
Cyclodextrins are a class of cyclic oligosaccharides that are made of glucose molecules linked with α‐(1→4) linkage to form a close ring structure. Cyclodextrins find large applications in cosmetic products [53]. Bacterial cyclodextrinase enzyme helps to obtain a cyclic form of dextrin. Production of cyclodextrins is reported in Brevibacillus brevis strain CD 162 and Mycobacterium terrae KNR 9 [54, 55]. Cyclodextrins obtained from bacterial enzymatic transformations find applications in skin‐cleaning products due to its potential to increase the solubility of substances that are secreted by the skin, including fats. The addition of cyclodextrin complex with tanning agent dihydroxyacetone helps to vanish the odor of later. In a similar case, glutathione used to reduce melanin pigmentation, skin whitening, and improved skin texture. But the odor of glutathione prevents its extensive use in cosmetic products. But if the glutathione is mixed with cyclodextrins, it prevents the bad odor of glutathione yet holding the same effect on the skin [56]. Cyclodextrin is used to decrease the rate of volatilization of esters, sustained release, and longevity of aroma in perfumes, deodorants, and room freshener products and detergents. Fine cyclodextrin powders are also used in talcum, diapers, sanitary pads, diaper pads, napkins, etc., to control the odor.