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ОглавлениеARGENTINA BUENOS AIRES
COLECCIÓN DE ARTE AMALIA LACROZE DE FORTABAT
Argentina’s wealthiest woman presents six centuries of art-treasure collecting
Collector:
Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat
Address:
Olga Cossettini 141
Puerto Madero Este
C1107CCC Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel +54 11 43106600
Opening Hours:
Tues–Sun: 12–8pm
The Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat lies in the middle of Puerto Madero, the trendy quarter of the Argentine capital. Until the end of the 1990s, this neighborhood was still a no-go area of rundown buildings ringing the harbor. It’s been heavily restored and added to over the past few years by world-class architects like Sir Norman Foster, Philippe Starck, and Santiago Calatrava. The architect of the Colección Fortabat, which opened in fall 2008, is the Uruguayborn New Yorker Rafael Viñoly. He built a modern, light-filled venue for the art collection of Argentina’s wealthiest woman: 1 000 works ranging from Pieter Bruegel to Andy Warhol, who made a portrait of her in 1980. The socially critical artist Antonio Berni has a gallery all to himself.
ARGENTINA BUENOS AIRES
MACBA—MUSEO DE ARTE CONTEMPORÁNEO DE BUENOS AIRES
An art center with a focus on international geometric art
Collector:
Aldo Rubino
Address:
Avenida San Juan 328
C1147AAO Buenos Aires
Argentina
Opening Hours:
Mon, Wed–Fri: 11am–7pm
Sat–Sun: 11am–7:30pm
MAMBA, MALBA, MACBA. Anyone flaneuring through Buenos Aires on a museum tour could get them mixed up. While the first two have been around for a long time, the MACBA arrived on the scene in 2012. The Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Buenos Aires was founded by native Aldo Rubino, who now lives in Miami and is a frequent guest on the collectors’ panel at Art Basel Miami Beach. Rubino’s private collection concentrates on geometric abstraction: Op Art, Hard Edge, and Neo-Geo, from Manuel Álvarez Bravo and Victor Vasarely, all the way to the American Sarah Morris. Special exhibitions feature all varieties of current art. Shows take place in the 2 400-square-meter translucent building brought to life by local architect duo Vila Sebastián. The location is great: the MACBA, which sits adjacent to the MAMBA, is in the lively flea-market quarter of San Telmo.
BUENOS AIRES
There is no shortage of museums, galleries, and other exciting art venues in Buenos Aires, the bustling metropolis on the Río de la Plata. Spread across so many different districts, with melodious names like Recoleta, Retiro, Palermo, and Belgrano, art invites you to explore the city and its rich cultural heritage. Since 2016, Buenos Aires is a partner city of the Art Basel Cities initiative. Over a number of years, this collaboration with the Swiss fair has been dedicated to strengthening the Argentine art scene. Aside from the private museums presented in this guide, you should definitely visit the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (MNBA), with its extensive collections of European and predominantly Argentine art through the twenty-first century. More closely affiliated with international art discourse is the private Fundación Proa, in the colorful harbor district of La Boca. Artists like Julian Rosefeldt, Alejandra Seeber, and Eduardo Basualdo have already been fêted in its gleaming-white building. In Palermo, the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA) impresses with its highly varied exhibition program featuring artists from Octavio Paz to David Lamelas. Located just behind, in a renovated 1920s villa, Casa Cavia and its unconventional mix of restaurant, flower shop, and bookstore invites you to linger awhile. In the districts of Retiro and Recoleta, galleries Ruth Benzacar and Jorge Mara-La Ruche offer primarily top-notch Argentine avant-garde art. On the other hand, Galería Isla Flotante, located in La Boca, is one of a handful of Latin American galleries that first took part in Art Basel Miami Beach in 2017. Every year at the end of May, the ArteBA fair, initially specialized in Latin American art but in-creasingly international, opens its doors in the halls of La Rural, a trade fair center from the1870s in the heart of Palermo. In fall, friends of photography will be rewarded at Buenos Aires Photo (BAPhoto), founded in 2005. Off-Spaces also exist—due to their often nomadic character, it is better to look for flyers once there.
ARGENTINA BUENOS AIRES
FUNDACIÓN COSTANTINI/MALBA—MUSEO DE ARTE LATINOAMERICANO DE BUENOS AIRES
A grandiose overview of a century of Latin American art
Collector:
Eduardo F. Costantini
Address:
Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415
C1425CLA Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel +54 11 48086500
Opening Hours:
Thurs–Mon: 12–8pm
Wed: 12–9pm
Unsuspecting “gringos” come across places in South America that they couldn’t have imagined in their wildest dreams. The Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA) is one such place. The museum features work from the Caribbean to Tierra del Fuego and is located in the posh district of Palermo Chico. It looks like an outpost of New York’s Museum of Modern Art (MOMA). Here, too, people know how to erect elegant structures; modernism is defined self-consciously here—naturally, from a Latin-American perspective. Nearly 300 key works from businessman Eduardo F. Costantini’s collection are on permanent display, such as politically charged conceptual art by Léon Ferrari; the Chilean Surrealist Roberto Matta is also well represented, as is the Brazilian Lygia Clark, whose fragile metal objects have leapt to premium prices internationally.
ARGENTINA SALTA
MUSEO JAMES TURRELL—
THE HESS ART COLLECTION, COLOMÉ
Turrell’s largest Skyspace and additional light rooms in breathtaking surroundings
Collector:
Donald M. Hess
Address:
Ruta Provincial 53 km 20
Molinos 4419
Salta
Argentina
Tel +54 3868 494200
Opening Hours:
Tues–Sun: 2–6pm
And by appointment.
Reservations encouraged.
Additional exhibition locations:
Napa, United States of America
Far away from all the major urban art centers, in a majestic location beneath the expansive bright blue sky of the Argentine Andes, lies the world’s first James Turrell Museum, opened in 2009. Here the light-and-land artist from Arizona completed his biggest Skyspace to date at his collector and friend Donald M. Hess’s vineyard, Colomé: 2300 meters up the side of a mountain sits an observatory with an open roof, enhanced by an orchestration of subtle light that achieves its greatest intensity at sunrise and sunset. Eight more light rooms, works acquired by Hess over the past forty years, are grouped around the spectacular centerpiece. Here you experience an unparalleled sense of meditative peace and inner reflectiveness. The Museo James Turrell, which Hess maintains along with his collection in North America, is a truly magical space in a fascinating location.
